18 Apr LOUISVILLE, KENTUCKY | THE ULTIMATE CITY GUIDE
It’s the city of bourbon, Muhammad Ali and the yearly equestrian spectacle of the Kentucky Derby. Louisville is often not on the radar of most travelers, but should be! With a variety of quaint, historic neighborhoods, and a thriving culinary scene I was pleasantly surprised by this Southern gem.
Louisville is in the state of Kentucky, in the southern part of the USA. It is only a 2,5-hour drive from the mecca of country music, Nashville, making it a perfect and more off-the-beaten-path stop in an all-American road trip itinerary. This city in the Bluegrass State also has its very own airport, a short 10-minute drive from the city. A weekend escape in Louisville will be one filled with hidden gems, bourbon tastings, tasty restaurants, and awesome boutique shopping (which comes in handy when you need to size up in jeans after all the great food).
These are the best neighborhoods in Louisville
Victorian mansions and industrial warehouses, cast-iron buildings from the 1800’s and funky street art: Louisville has many different faces and there is no better way to discover them by exploring the different neighborhoods of this surprising city. Which is exactly what I did!
Old Louisville
With its rows of elegant mansions and century old trees Old Louisville is picture perfect. The city is home to the largest collection of Victorian homes in the USA. Yes, they have even more than San Francisco or New Orleans! Many of them can be found in Old Louisville. I spent a few hours wandering Belgravia Court, St. James Court and S. 4th Street admiring the lavish and beautiful houses. Take a tour from the visitor center if you want to learn more about the the history of these pretty ladies in this cute, quiet neighborhood.
NuLu
My absolute favorite neighborhood is NuLu, a creative abbreviation for New Louisville. This district is known for its unique art galleries, antique shops, one-of-a-kind stores and a lot of great restaurants and street art and perfect to spend an afternoon.
Best shops
Don’t miss Red Tree, a 2-story labyrinth of home décor and furniture that continues into their outdoor patio in the back. Stop for a coffee with the best cookie in the USA (according to USA Today) at Please & Thank you Coffee and admire the work of local artists at Revelry.
Red Door
Old Louisville
Nulu
Revelry
Some other shops to visit in NuLu:
- Woman Owned Wallet (WOW), for feminine gifts
- Six Sisters Boutique, for clothing and accessories
- Peace of the Earth, for locally-made bath products
Butchertown
And now for something completely different: Butchertown! This industrial neighborhood just north of NuLu was once Louisville’s meatpacking district and is now home to excentric shops, funky street art, and a lot of hip and happening craft breweries for a great night out. Although it is not bad to start your day here either. Additionally, head to The Butchertown Grocery Bakery, this European-style bakery offers bread and pastries that are freshly made daily.
Where to shop in Butchertown
I love the Butchertown Market. Originally built in 1880 this striking building used to be a leather tanning company. Now it houses a variety of unique local shops, like Moss Hill Bath & Body. All soaps, lotions, and candles are made in small batches from their very own recipes. If you are looking for some bourbon-themed souvenirs, check out Bourbon Barrel Foods. Their high-quality spices and sauces are all made according to their three-word philosophy: Slow, Small, Simple. The one I took home is the Bourbon Smoked Citrus Pepper, which seriously spices up my steaks.
Market
For dinner, I highly recommend Naïve, a lovely restaurant with New American cuisine with Italian influences. Across the street there is also the Ten20 Brewery which has a nice outdoor patio for sunny days.
Other places to visit in Butchertown:
- Copper & Kings Rooftop Bar, for top-notch craft beers and stunning views of downtown Louisville
- Waterfront Park, for a relaxing walk along Louisville’s riverfront
- Vernon Lanes, for some vintage bowling with a cool retro vibe
Whiskey Row & Historic Main Street
Louisville is famous for its bourbon history and so the city has a lot of distilleries that open their doors to visitors for a tour. There is even a special Whiskey Row: a series of bars, restaurants and distilleries on the beautiful Main Street, which also happens to be the second largest cast-iron district in the USA after SoHo in New York City.
No wonder I got some NYC vibes here. These colorful buildings were once used as warehouses and offices for bourbon and tobacco companies, but now house stores, bars, bakeries and restaurants. Good to know: walk from West Main Street on to East Main Street, which will take you right into NuLu.
The best bars and restaurants in Louisville
In Louisville it’s best to travel hungry because boy are there treats to choose from. The city is the epicenter of “New Southern Cuisine” with chefs putting their own unique twists to classic Southern dishes, but is also home to thriving craft breweries, speakeasy-cocktail bars and classic bakeries.
LouLou on Market
A local favorite in the lovely NuLu neighborhood. LouLou on Market offers a New Orleans experience with weekly live jazz and bayou-inspired dishes and Voodo Punch cocktails. When the weather is nice you can dine on their patio. On rainy nights their cozy underground speakeasy is the place to sip on a boozy bourbon cocktail. I fell in love with their spicy gumbo with alligator sausage (yes, that’s right!) shrimp, crawfish and smoked chicken.
Royal’s Hot Chicken
When it comes to fried chicken, Kentucky is the place to be. As the birthplace of Kentucky Fried Chicken, this tasty fried dish can be found all over the state and thus also in Louisville. I had some pretty amazing pieces of this fried favorite at Royal’s Hot Chicken in NuLu where you can choose your own heat level. Try the X-tremely spicy Gonzo-level if you dare!
The Brown
I was told that if there is one dish I should have while in Louisville, it would be the iconic Hot Brown served in the elegant The Brown Hotel. So of course, I went and ordered. The Hot Brown is an open-face turkey sandwich, hot from the oven and served with bacon, tomatoes a delicate mornay sauce, and a lot of sizzling cheese. Needless to say, I loved it.
This Louisville staple originated from hungry night owls who, after a night of dancing in the hotel’s Blue Room, needed something to fill their empty stomachs. The usual go-to was ham and eggs, but the chef of The Brown got bored with that and invented The Hot Brown, which became an immediate hit and still is today.
Hell or High Water
Are you a fan of speakeasy’s? Then don’t miss Hell or High Water below Whiskey Row. This stunning 1920’s speakeasy is smartly hidden behind a curiosities shop. The plush red velvet couches, library bookcases and wooden panelling are the perfect backdrop to enjoy their elegant cocktails. I would advise making reservations, because this place is always packed.
More of my favorites:
- Hip Hop Sweet Shop – A taste of true Southern Banana Pudding
- Wiltshire Pantry Bakery & Café – For good coffee and tasty breakfast
- The Last Refuge – Bourbon, food and live music. Owned by Bob Dylan
Where to stay in Louisville?
You will be spoiled for choice when it comes to selecting a hotel in Louisville. From hipster boutique hotels to elegant historic stays: these are some of the cities best places to rest your head after a busy day out in town.
The Seelbach Hilton Louisville
Are you looking for roaring twenties and Great Gatsby vibes? Then book a room at The Seelbach Hilton Louisville Hotel. Century old crystal chandeliers, marble floors and a grand staircase take you back in time in this historic hotel from 1923 that was once frequented by Great Gatsby writer F. Scott Fitzgerald. I got a sneak peak into the Great Gatsby Suite, which is highly recommended if you are looking for something special. Love ghost stories? See if you can spot the Lady in Blue: this legendary ghost is said to still haunt the hallways and elevator shaft where she supposedly dropped to her death in 1936.
The Seelbach
The Myriad
Out in the hilly streets of the Highlands neighborhoods you’ll find the trendy The Myriad Hotel. This former disco ball factory now shines bright as a stylish boutique hotel. The outdoor pool is my favorite part of this hidden gem. Close to the hotel is the Cave Hill Cemetery with the grave of boxer Muhammad Ali, should you be interested.
The Brown
If you like a hotel with a story look no further than The Brown. Behind the historic façade of this landmark hotel, you’ll find a blend of Old World elegance and contemporary comfort. Just to give you an idea; the hotel opened in 1926 and has seen many celebrity guests, including 4 US Presidents. It is also home to the famous Hot Brown sandwich (see restaurant tips). Fun fact: Prince once played the piano in the lobby here into the early hours after coming back from one of his concerts. Oh yes, how we wished we would have been there!
Other hotels I recommend:
- The Omni Louisville – this modern hotel has a rooftop pool and is right in downtown
- The Grady Hotel – situated in the beautiful cast-iron district and within walking distance of many sights
How many days should I spend in Louisville?
To sum it up, with everything Louisville has to offer I would advise at least 2 days to soak it all in. Apart from all the neighborhoods there are also some interesting museums like the Frazier History Museum, the Louisville Slugger Museum if you are interested in baseball and a tour of Churchill Downs, the iconic grounds of the Kentucky Derby.
Don’t have a full weekend? No worries! The city is nice and walkable, with some neighborhoods only a short Uber ride away so you can pack in a lot if you only have 1 day. But no matter how long you stay: Louisville won’t disappoint, I promise y’all that!
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